Showing posts with label Money. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Money. Show all posts

Sunday, January 01, 2023

How Young Adults Can Build Credit Fast

Credit allows adults to borrow funds to make important purchases too costly to buy with their own cash: a house, an education, a car, among other things. "Credit” is borrowed money in various forms: credit cards, retail store credit, car loans, personal loans, college loans, and a mortgage (a large loan used to buy a house).

Next to earning a good living, an excellent credit score is the most important financial goal to pursue, and young adults can begin to do so as soon as they turn 18. Credit scores range from 300 to 850, and your goal should be to keep yours at or above 760, the point at which you’ll get the most favorable terms (lowest interest rates, down payments, etc.) when borrowing money.

The way you create and maintain a high credit score is simple: pay all your bills in full, on time, always.

Below is a rough outline of the steps I followed to help our daughter to establish and grow her credit score once she graduated from high school.

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Before Age 18: 

Work and save

This project will take $1500 or so to get started, so you’ll need to earn that seed money before you can begin the process outlined below.

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Age 18:

Regular income

You’ll need a source of regular monthly income greater than you expect to spend each month. To be safe, it’s preferable to earn at least twice what you’ll be using credit to pay for.

** Note: Each month, on a regular basis, you must deposit earned income into your checking account. Without that regular deposit of income, in large enough amounts, this project will not work. 

Checking account – backed by an overdraft savings account

Put $500 into a fee-free checking account, and $500 into a linked overdraft savings account that will automatically pay your bills if you overspend your checking account. 

Set up your accounts at a bank or credit union near you. I recommend credit unions over big banks. Credit unions support the local area economy and generally providing better service to customers.

Credit Card 1

First, apply for a “secured credit card” or "student card." This is a special kind of credit card for first-time borrowers with no credit history.

With a secured credit card account, you pay a deposit to the bank issuing the card (perhaps $500) to guarantee your purchases will be paid, as promised. Once you’ve shown a six-month history of responsible payments (paying all charges each month in full and on time), the deposit will be returned to you. Your “secured” card then becomes an ordinary “unsecured” card.

Use you credit card sporadically to pay for restaurants and other low cost items. Be sure to keep your spending well under the spending limit for that card (known as your “credit limit”).

* Note: If at any time you have questions about your card, you can call the customer service phone number listed on the back of the card to get answers.

Set Up Autopay on Credit Card 1

From the beginning, you should enable “auto-pay” through your bank’s online banking system to automatically pay credit card charges and other regular bills and payments directly from your checking account. Autopay ensures that all your bills are paid in full, on time, each and every month.

With autopay, all you have to do is check online at the beginning of each month to make sure your checking account balance (the amount in your account) is large enough to easily cover the automatic payments that will be withdrawn from your account that month (if possible, maintain a checking account balance at least double the amount withdrawn by autopay each month to pay bills).

In this way, you won't have to write paper checks to pay your monthly bills, add stamps to payment envelopes, and actually drop them in a local mailbox on time. Making manual payments like this is not just a hassle; it raises the possibility that you might make a payment late, or forget to do so altogether. With autopay, that never happens – as long as you keep your checking account balance at the proper level.

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Age 19: 

Become an “Authorized User”

Now that you have some clean credit history, you can apply to become an “authorized user” on a credit card owned by someone else who trusts you, like your mom or dad.

You’ll be able to use the card to make purchases, which helps strengthen your credit history, but you won't be responsible for any payments. This is where “trust” comes in.

To make the most of this score-building opportunity, be sure to remain as an authorized user on this account, making sporadic purchases with it, for at least one year.

Credit Card 2

Now that you can show a longer history of good credit habits involving two credit accounts, you can apply for another unsecured credit card under your own name. Having more open credit accounts improves your credit score – as long as you always pay the full amount due on every one of your accounts, every month, on time. Search online for info on the best credit cards to get.

Use this card sporadically. As usual, have payments for your second credit card made through your checking account autopay service.

* Note: Once you’ve established at least one year of clean credit history, you can remove yourself as an authorized user on your parents’ card. Time spent as an authorized user has served its purpose. Now that you’ve got your own cards, you don’t need to have your name on theirs any longer.

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Age 20:

Retail Store Credit Card

A “mix” of different types of credit also helps build a higher credit score. In addition to bank-issued credit cards, retailers ofter issue credit cards to customers.

Go to a favorite retail store, and sign up for a store credit card to make a some additional purchases. As usual, pay the balance on that card in full each month using autopay.

Credit Card 3 – Rewards Card

Now that you’ve had two years' clean credit history on three different credit accounts, you’re ready to apply for your “go-to” credit card: a Rewards Card. “Rewards Cards" offer users extra advantages.

The best card to get is a “Cash-Back” card, one that offers at least 2% back on each purchase. Your rewards card now becomes your “go-to” card that you'll use for nearly all purchases.

If you shop on amazon, you’ll want to get an amazon Prime credit card, which gives users 5% off on all amazon Prime purchases. Costco members can get a Costco membership credit card that gives 4% back on all purchases of gas, which could save a lot of money for those who do a lot of driving.

* Note: Don’t keep too many cards in your wallet. I keep only two, my rewards card, and my Costco card. I keep the amazon card at home, since I only use it for online amazon purchases. Still, it’s good to have more than one credit card with you, just in case one doesn’t work for some reason. It's unnecessary to have more than three or four credit card accounts, total.

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Age 21:

Consumer Tech Loan

The Apple Store and other tech retailers will give loans to customers to pay for major purchases of tech gear: laptops, iPads, desktop computers, etc. Buy a good product (something you need and were going to purchase anyway) new or refurbished from one of these major retailers, and have the loan payments made automatically through autopay.

Keep the term (length) of all loans under three years (less is better, but never pay off a loan in less than a year, to give your credit score the best boost).

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Age 22:

Personal Loan

With a fairly long credit history, you can now apply to a bank for a “Personal Loan.” This is a loan you take for something personal, like a vacation. Apply at the bank or credit union holding your checking and savings accounts.

Take a short trip with a friend, and pay for it with funds provided by your personal loan. Then, as usual, put the loan payments on autopay.

Don't borrow more than you can easily afford to pay back. But a small personal loan of $1000-$2000 paid over a two year period will help you credit score a lot.

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Age 23: 

Pay Bills

Get a cell phone account, put your name on your house utility bill, and sign up for a streaming service or two; then, put all these bills on autopay though your checking account or pay them automatically using your go-to credit card (call your credit card company to set this up).

Signing up for special credit services can give scores a boost for those who pay basic bills on time (especially phone and utility bills). Renting an apartment may require a such a history.

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Age 24:

Car Loan

At this point, you’ve established excellent credit over a period of several years, and have a score at or above 760, proof of top-tier “credit worthiness.” 

With such an excellent credit record, you can make your first major purchase using credit – a car. Either arrange a car loan in advance with your bank or credit union, or buy the car through a dealership and use their financing department to arrange the loan.

To save money (and get a better deal), it’s best to buy a car that’s used but only a few years old. Going through a dealer is super-convenient and makes a lot of sense for first-time buyers. Be sure to research best models and prices, before making your purchase.

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Age 25:

Home Mortgage

With three or four credit cards, a store card, a consumer loan, a personal loan, and a car loan on your credit history, each account over one year old and with a flawless repayment history, you’ll be able to realize the American Dream: home ownership.

The largest purchase most people will ever make is buying a home. A home loan, called a "mortgage," a huge step, but one you’re ready to make, now that you’ve learned how to earn and deposit money and handle spending and payment responsibly though auto payment.

The only other requirement is a regular income from work large enough to handle the mortgage (monthly income will need to be at least four times the monthly mortgage payment).

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Search online for other suggestions relating to building and maintaining excellent credit. The more you know, the better. Next to your career, and your home, your credit rating is the most valuable asset you possess.

Following the approach above, in five years, by age 23, one year out of college, your credit score is now well over 800. You're in rarified air with one of the best of credit scores, with a credit history strong enough to qualify to buy your first home under the best possible mortgage terms.

* Never close a credit card account, once opened, even if you owe nothing on the account. Generally speaking, it’s best to keep all credit card accounts open forever, since the older your credit history, the higher your credit score.

Track your credit score regularly using a site like creditkarma.com.

At this point, further credit isn't necessary, and you should avoid opening any additional accounts, unless truly necessary. Just maintain your excellent credit history, use the few credit cards you have, always pay all your bills in full and on time each month using autopay, and make sure your checking account balance is higher than you'll need to cover auto payments for at least two months (with a similar sum in your linked overdraft savings account, for extra safety and as an emergency cash fund).

You have arrived. Good job.

Enjoy!

For another look at this important topic, click here.

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Copyright © 2006-present: Christopher R. Borland. All rights reserved.

Thursday, April 01, 2021

Major for Money, Minor for Love

Once upon a time, in the days when college was affordable for virtually everyone, a simple part-time job was all it took to pay tuition, room, board, books, and fees. In the olden days, the best advice was: “Follow your passion. Study what you love, and the money will follow.” 

Nowadays, that’s bad advice. Undergraduate degrees are beyond expensive, and graduate degrees are even more costly. Stories are rife about college students racking up huge debts chasing degrees that don’t lead to jobs lucrative enough to pay them off.

Crippling costs of post-secondary education make it unlikely or impossible for many students to move up the social ladder. Without much (or any) disposable income left over after paying basic expenses and college loan payments, many young adults have little to look forward to in life beyond renting, penny-pinching, and dealing with the stress of living paycheck to paycheck.

For nearly all young people today, I believe the best advice is: Major for money, minor for love. 

Before we go any further, it’s important to understand three SAT words: vocation, avocation, and amateur.

A vocation is a primary job. It’s the work you do to earn a living, a professional pursuit, a step along a rewarding career path.

An avocation is work you do for fun, in your spare time. It’s a hobby, essentially. Something you do for the pure love of doing it.

An amateur is a person who works hard to excel at a beloved activity while receiving no monetary reward for doing so. For many years, the Olympic Games were open only to amateur athletes, those training and competing for no other reason than personal satisfaction and love of their sport.

My advice is to major in a field of study that will pay good money and provide you with a good job that you won’t hate. Find a lucrative field you can excel in, one that doesn’t turn your stomach, and put most of your time into advancing your skills in this direction. At the same time, minor in a different field simply for the sake of immersing yourself in that which fascinates you. In your spare time, recharge your spirit by doing what you truly love. 

Major in accounting, minor in creative writing. Major in business, minor in dance. Major in statistics, minor in Italian. Major in nursing, minor in psychology. Major in AI, minor in art history.

You may not want to turn something you love into a vocation, anyway. Do you really want to make your passion a day-to-day struggle?

Imagine your passion is creative writing. How would you honestly feel about having to deal with marketing hassles, constant criticism and rejection, stifling commercialism, and unforgiving deadlines that fill the lives of professional writers? Do you realize how much competition there is for the vanishingly small number of well-paying spots in such a field? How long it takes to rise through the ranks, earning almost nothing in the meantime? Is it worth it? The stress involved could well destroy your passion for writing.  

Instead, engage in your passion on the side, part-time, as a hobby. Do your own thing on your own terms, simply for the love of doing it. Be an amateur, not a professional. Instead of spending most of your days battling with the many frustrating and soul-crushing aspects of life as a professional writer, join online writing circles, groups of other aspiring amateur writers, and enjoy sharing and improving your work on an informal, part-time basis with an appreciative audience of like-minded people.

Spend most of your time doing something that feeds your wallet, and some regular time on that which feeds your soul. 

You’ll avoid the tremendous stress associated with being chronically debt-ridden and cash-strapped while getting maximum pleasure out of the activity you most enjoy in life.

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Copyright © 2006-present: Christopher R. Borland. All rights reserved.

Monday, September 01, 2014

Eternal Prosperity for Your Posterity

Assumptions and Definitions:

Individual X and spouse will raise two children each of whom will have spouses and raise two children (four grandchildren for individual X and spouse).

Individual X and spouse and all descendants successfully attend college around age 20, complete grad school and begin productive work or start and run a business from 20-30, marry for life someone of similar means and have two healthy children at age 30, raise their families successfully and are able to save modestly till retirement age, retire at age 60, live and retire comfortably (not lavishly) the entire time, and die at age 90.

Undergrad education costs $200,000, and grad school or starting a business costs $100,000.

All such individuals live with spouse and minor children in a $600,000 home that required a 20% downpayment to purchase at age 30 with a 30 year fixed mortgage at an affordable interest rate and can invest money till age 60 at 7% real growth and 3% thereafter (i.e. nominal rates of 10% and 6%, respectively, above 3% inflation) taxed at reasonably low average rates.

Prosperity: Having such a life.

Protoparents: The original two spouses who begin the process of eternal prosperity for their posterity.

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Given the miraculous effect of exponential growth (compounding interest), there exists a minimum "critical mass" number N for which Protoparents could fund an endowment for each grandchild at birth that would allow each of these grandchildren to live prosperously and do the same for each grandchild, and so on, ad infinitum … effectively guaranteeing eternal prosperity for their posterity.

What is the value of N?

Turns out, N is about $80,000 in 2018.

Following are some key milestones along the way (attainment of any one of these by each prospective protoparent should enable them to achieve critical mass for themselves and all their posterity):

Age 0:

Grandchild G is born, whose grandparents establish a trust fund in the amount of $80,000.

Age 10:

G’s trust fund balance is $160,000.

Age 20:

G’s trust fund balance is $320,000, and G is in college. $200,000 is paid out to cover undergraduate tuition, leaving a balance of $120,000.

Age 30:

G’s trust fund balance is $240,000. G has completed graduate school and begun work or started a business, has married and has two children, and owns a home with spouse that required G and spouse each to contribute $60,000 toward the down payment. $100,000 is paid out to repay grad school or business loans and $60,000 to cover G’s contribution toward the down payment on the home, leaving a balance in G’s trust fund of $80,000.

Protoparent Goal: $80,000 + $80,000 + $60,000 = $220,000
Protoparent Spouse’s Goal: $80,000 + $80,000 + $60,000 = $220,000

Age 40:

G’s trust fund balance is $160,000.

Protoparent Goal: $440,000
Protoparent Spouse’s Goal: $440,000

Age 50:

G’s trust fund balance is $320,000.

Protoparent Goal: $880,000
Protoparent Spouse’s Goal: $880,000

Age 60:

G’s trust fund balance is $640,000. Parents of G and spouse all die at age 90, leaving G and spouse each $640,000. G now has liquid assets equal to $1,280,000. Since G and spouse were of similar means, G’s spouse now also has liquid assets totaling $1,280,000. Together, G and spouse have $2,560,000 in liquid assets. G and spouse establish $80,000 trust funds for each of their four grandchildren, at a total cost of 320,000. This leaves $2,240,000 total liquid assets for G and spouse, together, which provides them with a safe 4% real return of $89,600, with no mortgage payment. Assuming their home has doubled in value, subtracting 1% annual property tax leaves them with a comfortable $77,600 real annual income, with no housing expense, for the rest of their lives.

Protoparent Goal: $1,760,000
Protoparent Spouse’s Goal: $1,760,000

Age 90:

Total liquid assets for G and spouse have remained at $2,240,000 during their entire 30 year retirement, since they’ve only withdrawn real annual returns equal to 3% over inflation. G and spouse die with $2,240,000 in liquid assets, leave, and leave $960,000 to charity and $640,000 to each of their two children … and the cycle recurs.

Notes:

The above assumes that neither G nor spouse saves any of their own money from work. If together this couple can save an extra $10,000 per year on average for 35 years (age 25-60), this would add $1,400,000 to their total liquid assets at retirement, raising their annual retirement income to $145,600, enabling them to establish a nearly $2.5 million family charitable foundation at their deaths, which after 90 years (3 generations), assuming all descendants followed suit, would grow to almost $25 million in charitable endowments while doing almost $50 million in philanthropic work (in real 2018 dollars) by that time.

Starting at age 25, average annual savings of $20,000 would grow to approximately $440,000 by age 40 at 7% real interest, achieving the indicated protoparent savings goal for age 40. This is an achievable initial goal for many aspiring protoparents (double this average annual savings figure would be required for single-earner households).

Naturally, life rarely conforms to such rigid schedules and round numbers as these. Nevertheless, I think it's useful to have rough long-term financial and legacy goals. Makes working and saving more fun!

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Copyright © 2006-present: Christopher R. Borland. All rights reserved.

Thursday, August 01, 2013

Money Flow



To optimize control of the flow of money in one's life, it’s helpful to use the metaphor of cascading “money buckets.” Just as a series of linked buckets store and direct water, one into the next, money buckets hold and control the movement of money in your life.

You’ll need four basic money buckets, each flowing into the next, in the following order.

1. Checking Account

The top-most bucket is your household checking account into which paychecks and other income is deposited and from which bills and other expenses are paid.

This bucket should contain an amount sufficient to pay at least one but no more than three months of essential expenses. For example, if your essential monthly expenses total $2500, your checking account balance should be maintained between $2500 and $7500.

Once this bucket is full, extra money should be transferred into the next bucket:

2. Emergency Savings

It’s prudent to have an emergency cash fund equal to 3-6 months of essential monthly expenses. For example, if your essential monthly expenses total $2500, this fund should contain between $7500 and $15,000.

This is your “attitude money.” These emergency funds allow you to have a “positive attitude,” knowing that, should an emergency arise, you’ll be well able to handle it.

For an extra benefit, this money can be stored in a savings account linked to your household checking account, providing overdraft protection to the checks you write.

Likewise, once this bucket is full, extra money should be transferred into the next bucket:

3. Retirement Savings

Always take full advantage of employer contributions toward your retirement savings! For example, if your employer will add an extra 3% if you commit 6% of each paycheck toward 401K or other retirement accounts, be sure to do so. This is free money!

It’s generally a good idea to maximize tax-advantaged retirement savings opportunities (adding a Roth or Traditional IRA, etc.) – but you’ll also want money to flow into general investment accounts, since retirement investments are hard to access until you hit retirement age. Set a sensible maximum amount for yearly contribution toward retirement funds, based on your income, in consultation with a tax accountant or other trusted advisor who understands your situation and applicable tax laws.

Again, once this bucket is full, extra money should flow into the next bucket:

4. Investments

Investment accounts should be further split, in roughly equal amounts, into passive and active investments.

Passive investments include lower risk, highly-diversified vehicles like index funds/ETFs and the like. The strategy is to buy and hold, no matter what, and take advantage of the market’s 10% average annual growth to virtually guarantee you’ll make huge profits in the long run. You’re not trying to beat the market, here; you’re simply joining it. Most or all retirement savings should be held in passive investments vehicles.

Active investments include particular hot stocks, precious metals, REITs (real estate funds), and even commodities and futures contracts. The strategy here is trying to beat the market. This is gambling, essentially. Sometimes you’ll win, sometimes you’ll lose. With study, and some good luck, your big wins will more than make up for your losses, and you’ll have fun trading in and out of these positions, swinging for the fences.

It’s a good idea to put more into passive investments and less into active investments, the more you dislike risk. But if you have the interest and can afford the time to study various investment opportunities, the rewards of active investing can be more than worth the risks, especially if you’re young and have plenty of time to earn back lost money.

Remember:

It’s mathematically impossible to beat the market over a long enough period of time. Gamble intelligently. Put at least half your investment money in less risky, well-diversified passive investments. Don’t become too euphoric when markets are going up, and don’t worry much when markets go down. Just keep buying and holding your passive investments, following a methodical investment plan. Invest rationally, not emotionally.

As your investments rise and fall in value, it’s important to look at your entire investment portfolio periodically and rebalance it (perhaps 1-4 times a year).

Once your investments have grown, use them to fund goals that bring joy to your life: owning a home, travel and vacations, buying cool toys, giving to others, making the world a better place, etc.

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Copyright © 2006-present: Christopher R. Borland. All rights reserved.

Monday, April 01, 2013

Budgeting for Lazy People

Successful budgeting can be summed up in a single key principle:

Live below your means.

One often hears how important it is to live “within one’s means,” but this isn't good enough. Such a level of spending makes saving impossible. In order to save, you must learn to be happy living below your means (i.e. spending less on fun than you are actually able to spend, given your income).

You can’t save if you don’t earn! Until you begin your career, make sure to set your sights on well-paying  employment and/or side hustles that will enable you to live comfortably and happily well below your means.

Until you earn average local income, save at least half of each paycheck after taxes and essential expenses are paid (your “disposable income,”) and spend the rest on whatever you want.

The Rule of Fourths

Once you’re earning above average income, budget roughly one fourth of your gross earnings (total income, before any deductions) into four major categories:

1. Taxes

2. Living Expenses

3. Savings

4. Spending (fun)

The amounts committed to each area probably won’t amount to exactly 25% each, but do your best to approximate that number.

The savings category should be split in roughly equal amounts between tax-advantaged retirements savings (401K, IRA, Roth IRA, etc.) and general investments (those with no particular tax advantages). Be sure to reinvest all earnings from your investments, to take advantage of the power of exponential growth (compounded earnings).

The spending category includes travel, toys, entertainment, and anything and everything else. Have fun spending this money any way you wish. You’ve earned it. Enjoy life and make memories!

Once you earn enough that your monthly expenses comprise roughly half of the budgeted 25% of your gross income (about 15% or less) … congratulations! It’s time to move up and incur higher expenses (e.g. move to a nicer place, buy a better car, get premium cable tv, etc.).

Once your household income is above average, observing the Rule of Fourths is a simple, effective way to sensibly balance four key requirements of a good life: living lawfully, prudently, comfortably, and joyfully.

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Copyright © 2006-present: Christopher R. Borland. All rights reserved.

Thursday, November 01, 2012

How Much College Debt Is Too Much?

As tuition increases make higher education harder and harder for average American families to afford, more and more are now forced to consider "mortgaging the farm" to get kids through college.

The average college grad leaves school with $20,000 debt collar wrapped around his or her diploma, and while this is not a catastrophic sum, the question of where to draw the line concerning college debt is certainly an important one for students and parents to consider, especially during uncertain economic times.

An interesting and informative article by Kim Clark in U.S. News and World Report discusses the details:

One third of all new bachelor's degree recipients in June of 2008 started their working lives without owing a penny in federal or private educational debt. Only 10 percent of last year's graduates owed more than $40,000, according to the lead author of the report, College Board researcher Patricia Steele. (She did not count credit card debt or other noneducational liabilities such as car loans.)

The median borrower graduated last year owing almost $19,999, a $1,026 increase from the typical debt load of 2004 graduates. "Most people would say that is a reasonable amount of debt to take on for a baccalaureate degree," especially if students stick with federal loans, which now allow borrowers to adjust their payments to their income, Steele says.

U.S. Education Secretary Arne Duncan said in a recent Bloomberg interview that unless colleges whose tuition schedules are "out of whack with reality" manage to reign in the cost of education they could soon find themselves pricing themselves into irrelevance as consumers turn increasingly to "no-frill" institutions offering less expensive three-year degree programs and other cost-cutting measures.

With real family incomes in retreat, and textbook prices going through the roof, even budget-conscious students at low-cost community colleges are often finding it difficult to make ends meet without taking on sometimes oppressive levels of educational debt.

For those about to face the prospect of taking out substantial student loans, this short piece by Associated Press outlines important things to keep in mind.

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Copyright © 2006-present: Christopher R. Borland. All rights reserved.

Tuesday, December 01, 2009

Learning And Earning: It's About Basics

We all know the importance of getting a college education. A college degree is the new high school diploma. It's amazing just how big a difference it actually makes to one's financial bottom line.

A recent article at washingtonpost.com makes this transparently clear:

"... while families at all educational levels have benefited from rising home values and stock market gains, the better-educated have enjoyed skyrocketing wealth, with college graduates recording an average net worth four times greater in 2004 than that of high school graduates."

The article goes on to report that while the incomes of families headed by college graduates have improved substantially in recent decades, real incomes of families headed by those with only a high school diploma have actually fallen by as much as 11 percent during the same period.

In another article, the Associated Press reported U.S. census data showing that, on average, college graduates in America earn almost twice the income of those with only high school diplomas (the ratio increases to nearly three to one for those with advanced degrees).

Nowadays, education is indeed the coin of the realm, and financial security and comfort necessarily require a good, university-level education. However, this in turn now increasingly depends on better elementary and secondary education than that available to most children in America (hence the phenomenal growth of the private practice education industry, of which I'm a part). Our educational system is producing inadequate results at best, relegating more and more young American students to the middle or bottom rungs of the ladder of international academic competitiveness. Because of an accelerating trend toward second-rate achievement in American schools, our teenagers will likely face increasing competition from more capable, better trained, more highly motivated foreign students clamoring to enter top American universities in the coming decades.

Our personal and national economic interests lie, therefore, in providing excellent basic education for our children, and on the rapid resuscitation of failing U.S. public schools. First of all, this means funding of good, public preschool programs for all youngsters in America, since universal preschool is by far the most powerful and cost effective way to quickly improve results in our schools, restore educational parity with the rest of the world, and ensure our future standing in the world economy.

Ultimately, American parents are the ones accountable for the success or failure of their own children. Following the bad examples of governmental leaders, corporate heads, sports figures, and others, Americans are becoming dishonest softies, for whom "playing by the rules" is only for fools, "discipline" and "rigor" are bad words, and "taking the easy way out" is the accepted norm. Parents who care and who know better simply cannot allow their children to fall behind in school. I'm always rather amazed and somewhat disheartened when perfectly capable high school students come to me for academic coaching addicted to their calculators (still not knowing their math facts by heart), unable to hand write legibly or organize their papers, etc. – that such basic deficiencies have been allowed to go uncorrected for so long.

In the current educational climate in America, often characterized by systemic sloppiness, grade inflation, cheating, corner-cutting, and general mediocrity, a good report card no longer guarantees actual competence or real accomplishment. Today, parents simply must take an intense interest in their children's early academic achievement. Without being obsessive, parents should micro-manage the progress of their children through the 6th grade, at least, to insure full mastery of essential academic skills. Otherwise, we as a nation risk losing the race in the new global market place. A cursory glance in the rear view mirror already shows China, India, and a host of other nations quickly gaining on us, threatening to take the lead.

More and more, it's all about basics.

And more than ever, it's more important than ever before.

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Copyright © 2006-present: Christopher R. Borland. All rights reserved.

Wednesday, July 01, 2009

10 Ways To Cut College Costs

The cost of college is showing no sign of leveling off, and already causes too many students and parents too many sleepless nights.

Bankrate.com recently offered readers "10 alternate ways to cut college costs" in an online article by Christina Couch.

Tips include getting college credit in high school (fewer college classes means smaller tuition bills), qualifying for free money, transferring from a (low cost) community college, or living in-state for a year to get the best tuition rates.

The article referenced above is an excellent place to start for those interested in cutting the cost of higher education (these days, that's nearly everyone).

Read it here.

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Copyright © 2006-present: Christopher R. Borland. All rights reserved.

Sunday, March 01, 2009

Save Thousands On Textbooks

Textbooks demand scandalously high prices these days. It's nothing for math and science texts to cost more than $150 apiece, and list price on some books has soared to
more than $200! That means that today's college students can easily spend well over $1000 or more on textbooks alone in a single year.

Excerpts from a recent article in the Pittsburg Post-Gazzette:

Like college tuition, the price of textbooks has soared faster than inflation. From 1986 to 2004, textbook prices nearly tripled, according to a Government Accountability Office report in 2005.

Nationwide, the GAO figured that textbooks were about a fourth of the cost of tuition and fees at four-year public colleges and universities and as much as three-quarters of the cost of tuition and fees at two-year public institutions.

Fortunately, there's a simple way to avoid falling victim to the college textbook extortion racket: ditch the college bookstore ... and buy new, used, or previous editions online!

Over the course of a four year college education, this tip plus a little disciplined research could easily save students and parents thousands of dollars.

Start by putting together a reliable list of the exact titles and ISBN numbers of all textbooks you'll be required to obtain for your classes during the upcoming semester (give yourself more time to save money and avoid problems by doing this as far in advance as possible).

To begin shopping, first search for the books you need by title, author, and/or ISBN on Amazon. It's possible to save nearly 30% or more when buying new books through Amazon or other online book dealers instead of at college bookstores, and even more (over 70%!) by buying used books online (at amazon, just click on the "... used" link a few inches below the title on the book's product page).

In addition to amazon, a host of online textbook price comparison sites like DealOz, CheapestTextbooks, and BookFinder enable one to directly compare prices of new and used textbooks offered for sale online at drastically reduced prices.

The latest edition of a given text is, of course, going to be the most expensive. But if the course instructor will allow students to use a previous edition rather than the most current one (it doesn't hurt to ask!), you could save nearly 70% on a brand new book by buying it online.

When buying textbooks online, whether new or used, it's a good idea to buy only from highly rated merchants (DealOz and Amazon provide this important information when doing book searches; CheapestTextbooks and BookFinder do not); otherwise, if your books don't arrive in a timely fashion or in acceptable condition, you may have to procure them again in great haste and at full retail price through the college bookstore.

And don't forget the option of selling your textbooks after you no longer have a need for them! Amazon makes this easy, and doing so could recoup much of the money you've had to spend (even after highlighting and marking your books, you'll still be able to get something for them by passing them along to another buyer).

The movement to lower textbook prices is growing fast. Some university professors are fighting back, opting to use free and low-cost online resources rather than force students to get ripped off at the college store. Aside from saving a pile of wallet green, buying used books online is also environmentally greener than purchasing brand new books to be used only for a short time and then discarded.

Save a bundle ... buy texts online!

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Copyright © 2006-present: Christopher R. Borland. All rights reserved.

Wednesday, October 01, 2008

Are Private Student Loans Too Risky?

Not all student loans are created equal. Are private student loans too risky?

In a word, yes.

Increasingly popular, highly marketed private student loans now make up a very large part of educational debt taken on by parents and students across the country each year. Unfortunately, these private student loans may have serious drawbacks and carry additional risks not associated with federal student loans, reported the USA Today's Sandra Block in a recent article on the subject.

These days, it seems that college costs are putting the word "higher" in "higher education," and deep educational debt is fast becoming a real concern for many American families. Although it's a truism that a college education is the single best way to ensure prosperity in our culture, many graduates could find themselves under the thumb of a crushing educational debt burden unless they're able to quickly cash in on their expensive university educations and find gainful employment. Those who cannot may come to regret their decision to opt for many of the private student loans so common today, which, though plentiful and easy to obtain, are often much less affordable, flexible, and forgiving than standard federal loans.

The question of how best to finance the costs of college is of urgent importance to more and more people each year, and if you would like more information about the potential dangers of private loans, I highly recommend Ms. Block's article on the subject.
Click here to read the entire article.

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Copyright © 2006-present: Christopher R. Borland. All rights reserved.